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Massal selection is a traditional technique for vines' reproduction that aims at preserving their intra-varietal genetic variability, in order to maintain the vineyard's distinctive traits and its relation with terroir intact.
Why is it so important for wine's quality?

Dietro le Case is a beautiful vineyard of Inzolia planted by my father Pietro in 1970 through massal selection from older vines originally selected by my grandfather in 1920s within the Menfi's area. They are original native clones, wonderfully adapted to the micro-climatic conditions of Tenuta Belicello, which perfectly embody our ancient wine culture and the character of terroir in Menfi.

I feel blessed for the opportunity I have been given: taking care of such a beautiful old vineyard that contributes to creating the most amazing landscape, a few steps from the Mediterranean Sea.
I love how longtime adaptation to soil, microclimate, and to specific environmental conditions determine natural modification processes in the vines that slowly dampen their generic varietal character and otherwise create a stronger, authentic identity deeply linked with terroir. And I also love the superior quality that old vines transmit to their grapes, thanks to the overall balance that they are able to reach with the place where they live.

 

An old Inzolia vine blooming in April

 

Unfortunately, old vineyards in Sicily are not as widespread as they are in other Italian Regions, for different reasons that I will try to explain.

The main reason is 100% financial: an old vine produces 50 to 70% less grapes than a young one, and not all vintners can afford the costs of a vineyard that simply does not yield enough. This is particularly evident considering that Sicilian grapes and wines are often underpriced, and that there is still a lot of cheap bulk juice sold by large wine producers to industrial bottlers and merchants who get the margin that should instead be guaranteed to growers.

Another reason is probably not so blatant, but similarly has an economic origin. In the past 50 years, wine production in Sicily has gone through several phases, not always understandable or desirable, sometimes generated by mere economic speculations little linked to the historical and cultural heritage of my beautiful island, and poorly respectful of its terroir. In many cases, older vineyards planted with Sicilian varieties and native original clones have been ripped off to make room for more “fashionable” grapes like Pinot Grigio or, most recently, Glera (the grape variety used in Veneto to make Prosecco bubbly wine), and many others.

Sadly, the desire for quicker and easier money has strongly contributed in the past and still contributes today to the impoverishment of our ampelographic patrimony and to the definitive loss of our old indigenous vines.

 

I am convinced that losing this extraordinary heritage ultimately entails much higher costs, both from an environmental and cultural point of view, than its effective protection.
For that reason, I have dedicated the past 10 years to safeguarding biodiversity and the original genetic material that has evolved in vineyard Dietro le Case for almost a century.

 

Old vine of Inzolia in vineyard Dietro le Case

 

My first action, back in 2007, was to reproduce these old vines by grafting their gems onto new rootstocks, creating a new vineyard of Inzolia that would continue the massal selection started by my grandfather in 1920s. This younger vineyard bears the same genetic variations and hosts the same different phenotypes as the old one, and now it gives me the grapes for Tivitti, a fresh and dynamic white that has soon become very popular amongst my wines.

This year I moved further and performed a much more delicate operation. For several years, I took care of the “wild” roots of many damaged or dead vines by training them to provide a new solid stock, and a few days ago I could finally re-graft them with the original genetic material carved out the same vineyard.
My goal is to preserve the depth and width of the living root system, perfectly adapted to the site and able to absorb the scarce humidity of the subsoil, in order to give the new shoots more chances to grow strong and to interact with the old vines still in place.

 

 And old Inzolia vine died, but her roots are still living

 

This video shows the entire process. An antique, manual art that has developed throughout 20 centuries and that only few people still master today.

 

 

I am now crossing my fingers: only time will tell if Dietro le Case will be able to live and produce beautiful grapes for many years to come.

 

More resources to understand Massal Selection

Dietro le Case Vineyard 
The new vineyard of Inzolia

 

Tags: Dietro le Case, inzolia, viticulture, old vines, massal selection

THE SHORT STORY

THE SHORT STORY

Grape variety: Frappato from Tenuta Belicello, Vigne Sottostrada
Soil: Deep medium-textured soil with sandy-limestone components lying on alluvial clay banks
Vineyard: planted in 2018, vertical shoot positioning, Guyot
Winemaking: skin contact for 5 days in neutral Slavonian oak casks
Alcoholic fermentation: spontaneous, wild yeast
Malolactic fermentation: spontaneous
Refining: 6 months on fine lees, neutral Slavonian oak barrels
Average production: 2.500 bottles/year

Download wine sheet

MORE ABOUT FRAPPATO

MORE ABOUT FRAPPATO

The origins of Frappato date back to the Greek colonization in the 6th century BC and to the adaptation of Greek grape varieties to the countryside of Kamarina, a city founded by the Syracusans in 598 BC.
This grape variety belongs to the "Nerelli" family, and has well adapted to the South Eastern part of Sicily, developing unique taste and aromas.

Although traditionally linked to the territory of Vittoria, over 46% of Frappato vineyards grow in the province of Trapani, while 34% grow in the province of Ragusa and 11,5% in the province of Agrigento.

This variety has medium vigor and moderate productivity. Due to its sensitivity to fungal diseases (odium, downy mildew, and gray mold) it adapts best to dry and windy climates. It has a fairly weighty, conical, winged bunch of compact, deep colored, thick skinned grapes that get ripe between the end of August and mid-September.
Frappato wines stand out for their intense aromas: the reason lies in their high content in terpenes, norisoprenoids, and benzenoids, three classes of aromatic compounds that make this variety particularly expressive.

Read the long story

TASTING NOTES

FuoriZona is a mouthwatering wine with a light ruby color, soft tannins, a distinct acidity and a graceful body. It smells of cherries, mint, violet and red roses, and has a juicy palate of blood orange and pomegranate, enhanced by notes of pink pepper.

It matches well with first courses, with blue and tuna fish, with seafood soups, couscous and all grilled vegetables. Try it also with young Sicilian cheeses like Vastedda and Pecorino primo sale.

SERVING TEMPERATURE: 54 - 61 °F
Pour FuoriZona in regular red wine glasses. Please remember that its fruity aromas will express better if the wine is served a couple of degrees lower than the regular red wine temperature.

 

WINEMAKING

We hand-harvest between the end of August and mid-September, using small 10 Kg. baskets and carefully selecting the grapes on the vines.

The grape bunches are transported whole and unbroken to the winery, where they are destemmed and crushed, and are immediately delivered to a large neutral Slavonian oak cask, where they undergo spontaneous fermentation for about 5 days. This rather short skin contact shapes the delicate texture and the very dynamic palate of an "atypical" and very expressive red, while preserving its fresh and expressive aromas.
After spontaneous malolactic, the wine refines for 6 months on fine lees in 10 hectolitres' neutral Slavonian oak barrels.

FuoriZona is nor fined not filtered before the bottling, and it ages for a few months in bottles before being ready to drink.

 

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